PARIS (AP) — Chemena Kamali’s sophomore collection for Chloé was a luminous exploration of femininity, blending the house’s heritage with a fresh, sensual energy for spring. Set against a backdrop of sun-faded apricots, blushes and soft whites, the collection captured Kamali’s vision of a summer that she surmised as: “when you pause, escape, explore and recharge.” It celebrated Chloé’s free-spirited DNA, infused with a lightness that felt both nostalgic and forward-looking.
Here are some highlights of Thursday's shows at Paris Fashion Week:
Kamali's joyful freedom
“There’s a liberating expression of total freedom,” Kamali said, of her spring display.
This freedom flowed through silk charmeuse gowns, lingerie-inspired crop tops and peek-a-boo designs.
Echoes of Karl Lagerfeld’s 70s Chloé lingered in exaggerated shoulders and standout pieces, like a loose-fitting, vivid blue coat. “Chloé is not a passing moment; it’s an eternal state of mind,” Kamali noted, grounding her collection in the house’s long-standing ethos of optimism and instinct.
Layering played a central role, but Kamali kept it light and intuitive, reflecting what she called a “very personal way of dressing.” Sheer fabrics and sun-worn lace mixed effortlessly with ribbed jerseys, creating looks that felt weightless and spontaneous, a signature of Kamali’s debut collection. “What matters to me is the feeling and intuition,” she said.
A standout moment came in the form of a dramatic trapeze-shaped silk gown, its dynamic silhouette swirling with movement. It epitomized Kamali’s ability to honor Chloé’s romantic roots while infusing a modern sensibility. “The mood is light, weightless, sensual and joyful,” she explained. That joyful freedom was a defining thread from start to finish.
With her second outing, Kamali proved she is the right designer to lead Chloé. She crafted a spring collection that balanced nostalgia and sensuality while pushing the house toward a bright, optimistic future.
Mugler’s Cadwallader takes a bite at fashion
Casey Cadwallader delivered a striking debut for Mugler, equal parts theatrical and innovative. The hair, sculpted into harsh fringes like a viper’s fang, set the tone for a collection defined by sharp architectural lines. Curving lapels adorned tight jackets, while tendrils of latticed silk flowed into skirts that bled vibrant yellows, creating a visual spectacle.
The collection boldly embraced femininity, featuring a bust that echoed the form of seashells and a densely packed bustier resembling a diving whale. This daring aesthetic aligns with Cadwallader’s aim to infuse the brand with a fresh energy, moving away from the extravagance that some original Mugler fans long for. However, the theatrical elements, while captivating, may prompt questions about whether they overshadow the essence of traditional fashion presentation.
Oversized tubular arms complemented a webbed skirt-coat, while a transparent loose trench evoked the look of a sea medusa, reinforcing Cadwallader’s commitment to pushing boundaries. This collection showcases a provocative take on body-conscious design and inclusivity, aiming to resonate with a diverse audience.
Yet, Cadwallader’s choice to prioritize multimedia and performance raises concerns. Critics may feel this direction dilutes the brand’s identity, diverting from the high-fashion roots that established Mugler’s reputation. The sentiment that the house is now focused more on entertainment than on pure fashion is a conversation that continues to unfold.
As the audience reacted with applause, it was clear that while not everyone may embrace this new vision, those who do are eager for more.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
